LTV Mac n’ Cheese

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LTV???

As in… “lick the vessel” CLEAN. Seriously.

Could mac and cheese be that good??? This is the most American of comfort foods. It’s not something I ever order when dining out, nor want to admit I’m even interesting in trying to master.  But, this is a dish for that cozy occasion when just nothing else will do.  Even our founding father, Thomas Jefferson, decided it was worthy of being served in the White House. Young or old, most of us wouldn’t turn down a perfect spoonful.

But our very American interest in convenience has taken this classic side dish to unrecognizable concoctions- the day glow orange, processed, boxed meal that parents feed to their kids. The Kraft company boasts of selling more than one million boxes a day. Is that really food? A meal?

I decided it was worth recreating this all time favorite, searching for a perfect balance of soft, rich, smoky, spicy, chewy and crunchy qualities. The LTV  packs a definitive punch. This version has enough merit to be complex. For mac and cheese, that’s a challenge. I’ve taken a classic sauce Mornay and gussied it up. I added dry mustard and worchestershire for background flavor, canned chipotles in adobo for a smoky bite, and believe it or not, a touch of liquid smoke as it enhances the chiles nicely. Tillamook’s vintage aged white sharp cheddar is the perfect cheese to round out the flavor of this sauce. For a crunchy top, I sauteed breadcrumbs in a bit of garlic and butter.

Although some could make this an entire meal, it only seems reasonable to suggest adding  something a bit more healthy as well. Dark and leafy greens perhaps, or peas, beans or asparagus with lemon.  A bit of wine can go a long way to cut the richness. Perhaps it’s all about balance. One can indulge in a dish as rich and scrumptious as this, but keeping portions small, is wise.

Now, I realize, there are those out there who covet their recipes, keeping their secrets close at hand, not to be out done, minimized. But what fun is there in that? We all know how important it is to share. And at least it may guarantee that perhaps some evening at a friend’s dinner table, when it is announced that their special family recipe for macaroni and cheese is being served, you won’t have to politely squirm through dinner systematically removing the contents of your dinner plate into the napkin in your lap.

AsparagusVin Santo - San Felice '03

LTV Macaroni and Cheese

This recipe makes (1) 9×13 pan, and (1) 6×12 oval or 8×8 square
It works well to make a portion to bake immediately, and to freeze the rest for another time. If freezing, don’t put the breadcrumbs on top until you are ready to bake it.

1 pound pasta (gemelli, cavatappi, fusilli) cooked almost to “al dente” and cooled

Sauce:
4 T. butter
1/2 cup flour
2 garlic cloves, smashed
1 T. dry mustard
3 1/2 c. milk (2%)
1 c. cream
salt and freshly ground pepper
2-3 T. chipotles in adobo sauce, chopped
1 t. worchestershire sauce
1/2 t. liquid smoke
1/2 – 1 lb. aged sharp cheddar cheese (start with 1/2, or go for broke)

Breadcrumbs:
2 cups dry breadcrumbs (rough, not fine, made from a baguette)
2 T. butter
1 large clove garlic, finely dice

Make the sauce: you can make this ahead and rewarm it in a pot while you cook the pasta.
Make a brown roux by melting the butter over medium heat until just starting to color, sprinkle the flour over the butter and stir well. Reduce the heat to medium low and let the roux cook for a few minutes, stirring. Add the garlic and the mustard and continue stirring for another couple of minutes. Your liquids should be in a glass measuring cup with a pour spout. With your whisk in one hand,  slowly pour about half of the liquids into the roux, whisking constantly as the mixture will thicken quickly. Once you have smoothed out any lumps, add the rest of the liquid. Whisk until smooth. Add the rest of your ingredients, adjusting the salt and pepper to your taste. Add the cheese in portions, tasting as you go, to find the right balance that works for you.

Make the breadcrumbs. I use leftover baguettes that have dried out, slice them and either use a rolling pin to partially smash them, or a food processor if you’re careful not to make powder. Melt the butter in a saute pan, add the garlic, stir, then add the breadcrumbs  and saute until just beginning to turn golden.

Prepare the vessels: In a large bowl, mix your warm sauce and cool pasta. Portion into your oven safe pans and sprinkle on the breadcrumbs (if baking right away.) Cook in a 350 degree oven for 30 minutes. The top should be just browning on the edges, and bubbling.

Now, eat your greens and remember to share.

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